I first fell in love with Ljubljana around 25 years ago – how could you not fall in love with a city whose name just happens to be formed partly from the Slovenian word for love?
With a wonderfully atmospheric old town lorded over by an imposing hilltop castle and carved in half by the lazy artery of the River Ljubljanica, the Slovenian capital is packed with museums, wonderful architecture, green spaces and some fantastic places to eat and drink.
It’s one of the most therapeutic places I know, and I’ve been coming back ever since. Here’s what you need to know to plan a perfect weekend break in Ljubljana.
When to arrive: If you can, visit for a long weekend, arriving on Thursday night so that you have a full day in Ljubljana on Friday.
How to get to town from the airport: There’s a frequent bus service between the airport and the bus station and train station in the city center; tickets cost €3.70 and the journey time is 30 to 50 minutes. Take bus number 28 and buy tickets on board. On timetables, the airport is listed as Brnik Airport Ljubljana. Alternatively, GoOpti runs an efficient, shared minivan shuttle service, with fares from €14 (book online).
Getting around Ljubljana: Much of the old town is pedestrianized so the best way to get around is on foot. There’s also an excellent bike hire scheme, and a local bus network, handy for getting to places beyond the city center.
Where to stay in Ljubljana: There are some great places to stay in the heart of the city, from the funky, budget-friendly Hostel Celica to cool design hotel ONE66 and the supremely luxurious AS Boutique Hotel.
What to pack: Bring comfortable shoes for exploring the city on foot. Expect temperatures to reach 27°C or higher in the summer months. Pack swimwear if you fancy trying a stand-up paddleboarding tour along the Ljubljanica River.
Travel tip: Book accommodation well in advance and get a Ljubljana Card online, for 25, 48 or 72 hours of free bus travel, tours and free admission to top sights.
Friday
Use Friday to tick off some of the top sights before things get busy at the weekend.
Breakfast
Before you start to explore Ljubljana, stop for breakfast at cozy Le Petit Café, or for a quick coffee to go, swing by specialty coffee roasters Stow2Go on Prešerenov trg.
How to spend the day
Explore Ljubljana’s atmospheric old town on foot. Starting on Prešerenov trg, check out the handsome Art Nouveau architecture along Miklošičeva cesta, and admire the colorful buildings of Mestni trg (the main town square) and Stari trg (the old market square) with its 19th-century wooden shopfronts. Next, drop into the baroque Cathedral of St Nicholas, and wander along the promenades on both banks of the Ljubljanica River.
For lunch, choose something enticing from the Open Kitchen – Ljubljana’s big foodie festival, which runs every Friday from March to November, so long as the weather is fine. Top restaurants from across the country prepare dishes at food stands between the river and the cathedral, and you can sit down to eat at one of the nearby benches and tables.
After eating your fill, head up to the castle, Ljubljana’s most prominent landmark. The castle has been here in one form or another since at least the 13th century, though most of what you see now is from the 15th century.
Dinner
Our pick for dinner is AFTR, where dining generally involves ordering several plates from the short menu along with some stonkingly good Slovenian wine, then sharing with friends in an effortlessly cool setting. The food is outstanding – this was previously a Michelin-starred restaurant that decided to reinvent itself, focusing on globally inspired street food plates and laid-back vibes. After opening in 2023, AFTR already has a Michelin recommendation, so definitely book this one in advance.
After dark
Fancy trying more of Slovenia’s excellent wines, with some tapas-inspired dishes to nibble on? Then head to TaBar, just off the riverside promenade. Alternatively, if cocktails are the order of the day (or rather, night), make for the landmark AS Aperitivo, which has a vast mixology menu and plenty of tables outdoors. For something more intimate, try Kolibri, known for its homemade tinctures, cordials and beautiful floral decor.
Saturday
Use day two for culture, dining and going out after dark.
Breakfast
Call in for breakfast at the popular Kavarna Rog, in the recently renovated Rog Centre – formerly a bicycle factory, then a squat and now a lively cultural and social center.
How to spend the day
Ambling around museums will fill a large chunk of your day. Find time for the Moderna galerija, home to Slovenia’s greatest collection of 20th-century art, the new Cukrarna Gallery, housed in a spectacularly renovated sugar refinery, and Plečnik House, the former home of Slovenia’s greatest architect (you can only visit on a guided tour – these take place every hour, on the hour).
Throw in the Ethnographic Museum if you have time, or stop by the Jakopič Gallery, a great little photography gallery. Stop for lunch at one of the many restaurants along the river banks – Most is one of my favorites, serving a phenomenal red wine risotto. It’s right next to the so-called Butcher’s Bridge, today covered in love locks and whacky sculptures.
Dinner
Head over to Gostilna pri Škofu, an unpretentious, low-key restaurant a short walk from the city center, serving up tasty traditional Slovenian dishes and a warm welcome.
After dark
If you want to enjoy a drink and some live music and dip into Ljubljana’s counterculture scene, make your way to one of the bars and clubs in Metelkova, the city’s arts district.
Sunday
Use day three to explore at a more relaxed pace.
Morning
Start the day with breakfast or brunch at Tozd or Kavarna Zvezda, depending on whether you’re up for sandwiches and sharing plates, or mouthwatering omelets.
How to spend the day
Take a leisurely stroll over to Park Tivoli, a great swathe of greenery – one of several, actually – reaching into the city center. Alternatively, take advantage of Ljubljana’s excellent BicikeLJ bike share scheme and head down to the Trnovo Embankment to explore more of the riverbank.
To enjoy the river at a completely different pace, consider joining a SUP tour – these depart in the morning and late afternoon from the park by the Špica Caffe, across the river from the Ljubljana Music and Ballet Conservatory.
Back in the old town, enjoy a late lunch at Güjžina – the best place in Ljubljana to try delicious traditional dishes from Slovenia’s Prekmurje region. Food from northeastern Slovenia is usually fairly meaty but in this case, all the dishes have been reimagined with plant-based ingredients.
A weekend in Ljubljana, even a long weekend, can pass all too quickly. Keep in mind that Slovenia’s vibrant, beautiful, and eminently lovable capital is also a great springboard for visits to Lake Bled, Postojna Cave and other parts of Slovenia. Once you’ve caught the Slovenia bug, you might find yourself back here in no time!
This article was first published Dec 4, 2019 and updated Aug 9, 2024.
