I’m an Adelaide-based travel writer and photographer, capturing adventures across Australia – although, shamefully, I hadn’t visited Sydney since the pandemic lockdowns. So when an invitation arrived to go to the harbor city to launch the latest Lonely Planet Australia guidebook series (for which I’d helped pen the South Australia chapter), I took it as a sign to return.
My biggest splurge was on accommodation, which you can easily trim by booking a central hostel, or a room outside the city center. Weekend public transport was surprisingly cheap, with a daily fare cap limiting my spend to $9.35 per day (excluding airport fees). I recommend pairing a few indulgences with free activities; a must in a notoriously expensive city.
Pre-trip spending
All prices are in Australian dollars.
Accommodation: $560 for two nights at the central, classy and convenient Ace Hotel. A 10-minute walk from Sydney’s Central Station and close to the city’s downtown core, it eliminated the need – and temptation – to take pricey Ubers.
On the ground
Friday
11am: I touch down at Sydney International Airport, collect my luggage and head toward the domestic terminal’s underground train station.
To avoid the minimum spend required to buy an Opal card (Sydney’s tap-on, tap-off metro pass), I use my contactless credit card across the weekend, delivering the same benefits as an Opal adult card, without carrying the extra plastic.
The feeling of frugality is short-lived as the airport’s “Station Access Fee” surcharge ($17.34) whacks me on top of the fare to Museum Station ($2.94) in central Sydney.
12pm: After a brisk train ride and a downhill stroll, I drop my bags at Ace Hotel and I’m back outside, all within 30 minutes.
To shake off the post-flight stiffness, I walk the 1.5km to White Rabbit Gallery in Chippendale for my lunchtime catch-up with old workmates. I’m ravenous by the time I arrive and we waste no time loading our table with handmade dumplings and aromatic teas (my share $17.50).
I wave my comrades back to their office and battle a food coma while roaming the gallery’s four levels of contemporary Chinese art (free).
3:30pm: Having not learned my lesson, I wander to the nearby Brickfields bakery and munch down a Sinner’s Schmear, a sweet cinnamon brioche with vanilla glaze ($8).
Keeping my urban food crawl going, I head 20 minutes north, where the Chinatown Friday Night Market (free) has just kicked off. The air is already thick with spice, and I eye off a braised pork belly Chinese crepe ($17) for an early dinner. With juices dripping down my arm, I complete my short circuit back to the hotel.
Friday total: $62.78
Saturday
8:15am: I’m up early to take advantage of Sydney’s unseasonably warm winter day. I hop on the 373 bus ($3.05) toward the city’s iconic eastern shores. My first stop: Coogee Beach.
A block from the water, The Little Kitchen cafe buzzes with chatty regulars, helter-skelter baristas, and the aroma of a hot cake special. I snag the last table and settle on the halloumi and roast field-mushroom bap ($16) with my coffee ($4.50).
10am: I fill my water bottle (free) at the foreshore reserve and join the stream of nylon-clad walkers sweating their way north along the Coogee to Bondi coastal walk (free).
By the time I reach Bondi Beach 6km later, I’m a hot mess. I strip down to my shorts and dive into the wash (free). The icy water hits instantly, a sharp reminder that winter isn’t quite over.
Once dry(ish), I’m tempted to continue my walk to Watsons Bay at the tip of the headland, but the track is largely under construction. Instead, I catch the 380 bus ($3.05) northbound and finish my morning’s exercise exploring Sydney Harbour National Park (free).
1pm: With skies too sunny for indoor dining, I head to Doyles Fishermans Wharf Takeaway by the Watsons Bay ferry terminal. I opt for separate orders of fish ($10.90) and chips ($7.70), shaving $3 off the combined fish ‘n’ chips price, and feast beneath the shoreline’s stately Moreton Bay fig tree.
Next, I’m on the water, and I reach my daily public transport fare cap on the ferry ride to Circular Quay (daily cap $9.35), admiring Sydney’s iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House from the glistening water.
Back on land, it’s a five-minute walk to the Royal Botanic Gardens (free), where I spend my lunchtime savings on an ice block/popsicle ($4) from the cafe. With 17,000 steps already logged on my phone, I find a shady lawn overlooking the lotus pond, lower my cap, and rest my eyes.
I rouse to a message from an old footy mate, Lindsay, suggesting we catch up at his friendly neighborhood pub, the Bellevue Hotel. I jump on a train (now free) from Circular Quay to my hotel, rinse off the salt, dig out a pair of jeans, and ride the 440 bus to Paddington.
6:30pm: Lindsay and I trade old war stories over dinner and are constantly distracted by the pups parading through this dog-friendly bar. I go for the hearty beef and Guinness pie ($25) and a crisp Pinot Grigio ($11). We take a digestive stroll through the ‘burbs, say our goodbyes, and I hail the bus (still free) back to the hotel.
Saturday total: $88.45
Sunday
9am: With winter’s sun still beaming, I set my sights on Sydney’s northern beaches. I catch a train ($2.94) to Circular Quay, followed by a ferry to Manly Wharf (hitting the daily fare cap); the breezy 20-minute voyage begins to shake my morning slumber.
The coffee ($5) from Fika finishes the job, while their “Scando Avo”, smashed avocado on rye with feta, strawberries, pickled chili, and an extra egg ($21.50, plus $2.70 in surcharges) preps my stomach for the day.
With my legs weary from yesterday, I switch walking for paddling and hire a kayak ($55 for three hours) from Manly Kayak Centre to explore North Head’s secluded beaches. Before hitting the water, I comb the nearby Manly Markets for seafaring snacks. I splurge on a raspberry white chocolate ganache cruffin ($9.50) and a sumo mandarin ($2.50).
12pm: Weaving through an armada of bobbing yachts, I paddle beyond Manly Wharf, where a salty breeze meets me. Passing a row of luxe waterfront villas, I’m momentarily transported to the Mediterranean coast – until a eucalypt branch brushes against my bow.
At Store Beach, I rescue my flattened snacks from my dry bag and devour them while ambling along its tree-lined shore.
Next, I kayak to neighboring Quarantine Beach, where I pay for the sunlit harbor view in the form of an apple cider ($12 plus $1.40 weekend surcharge) from Wharf Cafe & Bar.
After navigating an increasing headwind back to the Manly Wharf, I board the ferry (now free) and then train (yep, free) back to the hotel, with plenty of time to shower, relax, and prepare for dinner.
6:30pm: I meet a few of the other Lonely Planet crew who have arrived for the book launch that’s brought me here, and we dine at LOAM, ground level of the Ace Hotel lobby. Food envy is divided equally as the dishes arrive. I indulge in the portobello katsu burger ($26), a smooth Amo Vino’ Ramato’ orange wine ($15), and a baked rice pudding ($16) while wearing the credit card surcharge ($2.29) plus tip ($2.96).
Sunday total: $180.91
The final tally: $892.43
-
Accommodation: $560.00 (two nights)
-
Public transport: $38.98 (including airport surcharge)
-
Food and wine: $229.10
-
Activities: $55.00
-
Hidden surcharges and tips: $9.35
Notes
This budget excludes air, bus or train fares and, as mentioned, there is cheaper accommodation available across Sydney. Prices listed on menus in Sydney already include taxes and tips. However, extra surcharges may appear on your bill. Credit card fees are sometimes added to cover the processing costs banks charge. Surcharges on weekends and public holidays are sometimes applied to offset higher demand and increased labor costs (typically between 10 and 15%).
This article was first published Aug 14, 2019 and updated Oct 18, 2024.
