For those looking to spend just under a week in Thailand, the most difficult choice is whether you head north to the mountains of Chiang Mai or make a beeline for the beach and spend the next few days sipping fresh coconuts along the Andaman Coast.
Unfortunately, even those who have lived here for decades, like myself, still struggle with this decision. So taking Bangkok as the logical starting point, do you look north to cooler climes or dream of curling your toes in sun warmed sand?
With more than five days in Thailand, you could easily do both thanks to countless cheap internal flights. For this short itinerary though, we’re going to focus on replenishing our vitamin D levels by traveling south to the easily accessible islands.
When to arrive: Flights into Suvarnabhumi International Airport land at all times of day and night and there’s always transport available. Additionally, taxis and minibuses will take you to almost anywhere in the country for the right price.
How to get from the airport: If you prefer to stay a night in Bangkok before hitting the road, taxi ranks and Grab taxi pickup spots are your best door-to-door options, while shuttle buses deliver passengers to main city arteries. Alternatively, head to the basement floor and jump on the cheap and fast Airport Rail Link straight into Phaya Thai.
Getting around town: Whichever “town” you find yourself in, you’ll not be able to miss the allure of a tuk-tuk ride. Barter a price you’re happy with and enjoy the ride knowing you can’t get a moment like this anywhere else. For every other occasion, taxi apps like Grab and Bolt offer a cheap and safe option that’s super convenient too.
What to pack: Whether you opt for the north or the south, shorts, flip-flops, loose tees, summer dresses and a cool pair of shades are a fail-safe collection for any tropical holiday. Thais love taking selfies, so if you wanna join the masses, bring a nice outfit or two to look good on the ‘gram. Outfits aside, pack a big bottle of sunscreen and maybe some ear plugs – Thailand has a habit of being noisy even during the wee hours.
Leave at home: It may sound counterintuitive, but mosquito spray is plentiful here. Every outdoor restaurant or bar will have a communal bottle at hand, and every corner shop has a dozen brands to choose from.
Day 1: Busy Bangkok
Morning
Love it or hate it, Bangkok is the starting hub for many Thailand adventures. Be efficient with your time and jump in a taxi and head straight to Khao San Rd – but we’re not here for the bars. In the morning, the street is a calm, food-filled haven perfect for satiating any Thai food craving you can’t suppress for a moment longer.
Once nicely full of pad thai and mango sticky rice, drop your bags at one of the many tour operator offices and book yourself a night bus ticket southbound. This will save you time and the cost of a hotel, which you’ll appreciate as you wake up a stone’s throw from the beach (albeit a little tired from the journey).
How to spend the day
While you’re here, you might as well make the most of your day in Bangkok. If you’ve got the time, pack in a tour of the city’s famous temples and palaces. Work out the knots from a long flight by the hands of spiritual masseuses in the birthplace of Thai massage, Wat Pho, before meandering your way towards the Grand Palace and the nearby Temple of the Emerald Buddha (be sure to cover your shoulders and knees before entering) for some sightseeing.
Alternatively, skip the temples and head straight to Chatuchak Weekend Market (closed Monday and Tuesday) to stock up on new beachwear and to get your souvenir shopping over and done with – if you’re anything like me, leaving it to the last minute spells disaster.
Dinner
Keep close to wherever you’ll catch the bus from to avoid any traffic-induced mishaps and grab a bite to eat along the lesser known Phra Athit Rd, a popular hang-out spot for locals with a nice selection of Thai restaurants, snack-attack cafes and moody jazz bars. For authentic city food, Karim Roti Mataba is one of the city’s oldest and best known restaurants that sits opposite the beautifully maintained Phra Sumen Fort.
After dark
If you’re not boarding a bus towards the islands by this point, Khao San’s endless bars make most sense for those looking to party, whereas Chinatown, one of the world’s largest, erupts into a foodie heaven. Phenomenal seafood grills, amazing Chinese-Thai delicacies and endless back sois (streets) packed with old-school Thai shophouses maintain an old-world charm despite its rolling modernization.
For a fancier night out, Chinatown’s Soi Nana is home to some unique bars like Teens of Thailand and Tep Bar that serve local liquor in fancy cocktails, setting the scene for a great five days to follow.
Day 2: The Gulf of Thailand
Morning
Here you have a choice of three islands: Ko Samui, Ko Tao or Ko Pha-Ngan.
Depending on the bus you chose, you’ll either disembark at Chumphon Pier that connects directly to the ferry terminal, or further south in Surat Thani, where there’ll be taxis and tuk-tuk drivers eagerly waiting to take you to Don Sak Pier.
Chumphon Pier has a longer ferry ride that stops at Ko Tao first and Ko Samui last, while from Don Sak Pier offers a choice of two direct ferries to Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan.
How to spend the day
All equally beautiful and easy to get to, take your pick based on the vibe you crave and stick to your guns. You’ll want to be here for a few days after all that traveling.
Ko Samui is larger and more developed than the others, with a mall and airport for those who want to skip the bus ride and fly straight into paradise. A big time all-rounder, you’ll find most major hotel chains and a wide variety of atmospheres from private beach escapes to bustling party corners. Chaweng and Lamai both offer good food, drinks and shopping, but the latter is smaller and significantly more picturesque. Mae Nam in the north and Ao Phang Ka in the southwest are more laid-back, while the Big Buddha and surrounding jungles are rich and ready for exploration.
Ko Pha-Ngan is most famous for its Full Moon parties that draw tens of thousands of young travelers during peak season, but there’s much more to this island than beach parties and buckets of whisky. Unspoilt coves and peaceful private resorts populate the rest of the island, while hikes to Domsila Viewpoint offer superb panoramic views over the island. But, if you’re here to get your full moon on, cover yourself in neon paint and head for Hat Rin Nok.
Ko Tao offers a more tranquil and calm beach experience perfect for lazy couples and families. Beautiful bays, alternative cafes and a huge scuba diving scene make it an easy choice for some, while the hiking trails and surprising amount of rock climbing double down the decision for more adventurous types. Hat Sairee (or Sairee Beach) on the west coast is the longest and most-developed part of the island but don’t expect much compared to its bigger sisters.
Day 3: Relax in the sun
How to spend the day
Pack your bag and head to the beach of your choice for a well deserved rest day. Mornings start a little slow on the islands, so enjoy a lie in and don’t expect to find (good) coffee anytime before 10am.
Whichever island you opted for, expect to indulge on fresh coconuts and delicious seafood in restaurants along beachfronts, while the sea glistens with soft white waves and the metallic sheen of jet skis, motorboats and parasails – all easy to rent – offering endless fun.
If you’re still craving adventure and, like me, can’t sit still, hike your way to Na Muang Waterfall (Ko Samui) and cool off in the freshwater, float around in rubber rings in the oasis that is Paradise Waterfall (Ko Pha-Ngan) or try your luck at the Treasure Island Challenge (Ko Tao).
Day 4: The Andaman Coast
Morning
Say your farewells to the island and set off on the early boat back to the mainland in search of the Andaman Coast. The most cost-effective options are ferry-bus combo tickets that you can buy directly from hotels, tour operators or at the pier itself, but if you’re catching the 5 or 6am catamaran, best to buy the day before.
How to spend the day
Depending on your ticket, you can make it across the mainland to Krabi in sub-three hours but expect a little delay here and there. As one of the most beautiful provinces in Southern Thailand, take the time to appreciate the mainland’s towering karst formations, white-sand beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters.
Hat Railay and Hat Ton Sai are technically still part of the mainland but are only accessible by boat as this idyllic paradise is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs on all sides but the coast. It’s these cliffs that make Railay (as it’s affectionately known) a world-class climbing destination. Expect it to be busy in peak season.
While staying the night is ideal, hotels tend to be on the more expensive side and fill up fast due to limited space. If you find yourself without a room there’s always rows of longtail boats parked up on the beach waiting to ferry people back to Ao Nang or Krabi Town, running services well into the night.
Dinner
There are a few wonderful spots to eat at Railay. The most exquisite has to be the Grotto found tucked inside a private cave formation overlooking the iconic sea-erupting karst Ko Rang Nok. It’s only accessible to guests of Rayavadee, the “island’s” most expensive resort. For those without that luxury, Coco 2004 Restaurant serves some of the freshest Thai food on the island. A perfect place to fill your belly before grabbing a few beers and a plastic mat, lying back and stargazing on Railay Beach. Visit in the right season (just before the monsoon) and bioluminescent plankton may shimmer back at you too, an incredible natural phenomena that’s got to be seen to be believed.
Day 5: Phi-Phi, Phuket or Krabi
How to spend the day
Depending on your return flight, either early or leisurely exits will be on the cards. If you have most of the day, jump on a ferry to Ko Phi-Phi and find yourself snorkeling in the famous Maya Bay by lunchtime. From there, take a ferry to Phuket for some high-end shopping and a fancy meal before boarding a domestic flight back to Bangkok from Phuket International Airport.
Alternatively, stay Krabi side and charter a longtail boat with Big Tour Krabi to take you on a whirlwind tour of Ko Tan Ming, Puya Bay, Chicken Island, Tup Island, Poda Island, and the incredible Thale Waek – a stunning white-sand beach that only appears in low tide.
Back to the mainland, a short trip to the airport puts you on the trajectory back home. Or you could stay a few more nights…your boss will surely understand, right?
