They call Nishiki Market “Kyoto’s Kitchen” for a reason. This 400m-long (1312ft) arcade street, several paces wide, has more than one hundred shops and stalls selling everything from kitchenware and powdered matcha to pufferfish sashimi, and an ocean floor’s worth of seaweed. Though some argue a market existed here as far back as the Heian period (794–1185), it was officially recognized by the ruling shogunate in the early 1600s, primarily as a hub for fish wholesalers. In the centuries since, Kyoto’s famously discerning eaters have come here for fresh shellfish and filleted guji (tilefish), a riot of citruses and vegetables for making tsukemono (pickles), silky tofu and azuki beans, beautifully crafted chopsticks and tea bowls painted to reflect the season, and kelp and dried shiitake for flavoring their miso soup.
Advertisement
Like all markets in tourist hot spots, some of the vendors have adapted (with mixed results) to accommodate the influx of fresh faces, swapping loose-leaf tea for tea-infused ice creams or fresh fruit for fruit-stuffed sandwiches. And during peak tourism season, which is most of the year now in Kyoto, it becomes clear the market was simply not designed to accommodate the sheer number of daily visitors. But if you are okay with crowds, an afternoon of strolling and eating in Nishiki Market remains one of Japan’s great gustatory pleasures.
When should I go to Nishiki Market?
Japanese cities tend to wake up late and Kyoto is no different. Most stalls and stores in Nishiki Market open around 10am, so if you want to beat the crowds and can stomach raw fish, beef skewers, tempura, sweet bean paste, and beancurd skin for breakfast, then get down for opening time. From lunchtime through to the 6pm closing time (selected stalls will stay open as late as 10pm) the market is thronged.
How much time should I spend at Nishiki Market?
This will be largely dictated by your appetite and ability to deal with crowds. Voracious eaters will find ways to spend hours in Nishiki Market, where every morsel of food is another dopamine hit in waiting. A good way to maximize that time is to walk the market from stem to stern once or twice, taking note of the places you want to eat in before stuffing your face at the first few stalls you encounter.
Local tip: Stop at the food court for a beer or sake to escape the constant conveyor belt of visitors and recharge your stomach for the next meal.
Advertisement
What should I look out for at Nishiki Market?
Produce
If you’re a food fanatic, the market will have you swooning from the outset; even Kyoto’s top chefs stock their Michelin-starred kitchens with Nishiki produce. Locals are often found shopping for freshwater fish from nearby Lake Biwa, wheat gluten cakes called fu used in simmered dishes like soups and hot pots, or heirloom vegetables for obanzai, Kyoto-style home cooking, including daikon radishes, ginger, shiso (perilla), yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam), konjac, edamame, kabu (Japanese turnips), and shungiku (chrysanthemum greens). Though they may be of little interest to the average traveler, the market’s fruit and vegetable stalls are a reflection of shun (produce at peak ripeness) and the timeworn concept of ko, the 72 microseasons that shaped which genera were ripe for the picking. These stalls are an education in Japan’s approach to food.
Eat while you’re here
For food on the go, you’ll be equally spoilt for choice. Best is to start at the western end of the market from Takakura-dōri, where you’ll find the aptly named Nishiki store selling packaged tofu and tofu teishoku (set meals), as well as the chic City Bakery (Japanese bakers could give French patissiers a run for their money), an izakaya (pub-eatery) specializing in prawns and shellfish called Hamohide, and the Nishiki Gyoza dumpling and fried chicken shop.
As you eat your way towards the eastern end of the market, look out for high-grade, farm-to-table wagyū (Japanese beef) at Nandaimon, the 90-year-old dashimaki tamago (rolled omelet) recipe at Tanaka Keiran, sushi sets at Nishikizushi, and sweets flavored with Uji green tea at the Sawawa shop.
One of the best new additions is the Nishiki Market Food Court, built to lure eaters away from the crowded main drag. The long rectangular room, all colorful paper lanterns and the jaunty music of yesteryear, is surrounded by stalls serving the most popular foodstuffs in the market: beef sushi and steak cuts, tako-yaki (grilled octopus dumplings), grilled ayu (sweetfish), karaage (deep-fried chicken thigh), oysters shucked and seasoned, Asahi beer, and Japanese rice wine for as little as ¥100 (US$0.67) a glass. After the market’s workaday vendors close up shop, the food court stays lively for another couple of hours, until around 8pm.
Shopping
Souvenir shoppers should also consider browsing the wares at Aritsugu, founded in 1560 as a sword maker and now selling bespoke knives and cooking utensils; Maisendo with its handcrafted bamboo-and-washi-paper fans; Touan for glazed tableware and ceramics; or Kidoairaku, a husband-and-wife run pottery store specializing in kyoyaki (Kyoto-style pottery). The craftsmanship on display in these stores is museum-worthy, evidencing why Kyoto is still considered the cultural capital of Japan.
Local tip: Bear in mind that walking and eating is a faux pas in Japanese culture – though it must be said not all young people observe this etiquette as fastidiously as their elders. Concomitantly, vendors find it frustrating when tourists clog up their storefronts by standing and eating, so if there’s nowhere in the shop to sit, find an alcove or enjoy your food on one of the side streets dissecting the market.
How do I navigate Nishiki Market?
For those that like drawing up an itinerary, the Nishiki Market website has a map with information on the respective vendors, their produce and hours of operation, but part of the fun is the sense of discovery that comes with going in blind.
How do I get to Nishiki Market?
Running west to east in the heart of the city, Nishiki Market is within walking distance of most hotels in central and eastern Kyoto. It’s also serviced by buses running along Karasuma-dōri and Shijo-dōri, two of the city’s main arteries. That said, the number of tourists clogging up commuter buses in recent years has caused discontent among Kyoto locals; you’d be doing them a favor by walking or using another mode of transport. Also, consider cycling; Kyoto has lots of bike rental stores, and the central city is flat and set out in a navigable grid system. Just be sure to check the city’s bicycle parking regulations beforehand.
Can I haggle?
No. Haggling is rare in Japan, even in markets. Especially with the yen trading at historic lows against the pound, euro, dollar and other major currencies, it would come across as tightfisted to ask vendors to reduce their prices. However, some stalls have used travelers’ increased purchasing power as an excuse to hike up their prices, so it’s worth doing some cost comparisons while you’re here.
Can I pay by credit card?
Despite its high-tech image, Japan is still a cash-based society. A post-pandemic push for digitization means card readers are now more prevalent and you will find shops in Nishiki Market that take various kinds of e-payment. But a general rule in Japan is to always have cash, especially if visiting markets or independent mom-and-pop shops.
