When December rolls around in Barcelona, lights are going up, market stalls are being assembled, and someone is hiding a mischief-making figurine in the nativity scene. Colorful displays are hung in the historic center’s ancient alleys and the Passeig de Grácia promenade transforms into a river of twinkle lights, leading pedestrians to the evening holiday light show projected on the mesmerizing façade of Gaudí’s Casa Batlló.
Christmas is a very special time to be in Barcelona, a city that never shies away from an opportunity to celebrate a holiday with flair, honoring tradition with a hefty dose of spectacle on the side. Here are some things to expect, and tips for finding the best holiday markets and feasts, to get you in the mood for the Christmas season in Barcelona.
Look for the “pooper” and friends
It’s safe to say that nobody does Christmas quite like the Catalans and their iconic caganer. You’ll see the character on souvenir shelves throughout the year, but Christmas is his time to shine. The “pooper,” as is the literal translation of his name, is a traditional figurine that is hidden in Catalan nativity scenes. While it might be shocking to newcomers in Barcelona, the caganer is a beloved tradition amongst Catalans who see his presence as a sign of good luck and a symbol of fertility. At Christmas markets, you will find caganers sold everywhere, as well as his political and pop-culture counterparts from which no one’s likeness is safe. From presidents and artists to Disney princesses, and anime characters, the diversity will surprise you.
Santa isn’t the only gift-giver in town
As you peruse Barcelona’s Christmas markets, you can’t miss the wide-smiley and bright red nose of this charming little log. The Tio de Nadal is the traditional Catalan Christmas log that is placed under every tree. Children feed the log and cover it with a blanket to keep it warm until Christmas Day, when it is time for Tió to keep up his end of the bargain and poop out their presents. Yes, even the logs poop in Barcelona. However, in order to get the presents, the children must hit the log with sticks and sing a song to help him produce the gifts. This happy little log is also called “Caga Tió”, meaning “Poo Log”.
Some foods and flavors are only served at Christmas
From sweets to hearty winter dishes, there are a few different meals and treats foodies can seek out on a Christmas trip in Barcelona. The easiest to pick up, which you’ll also be able to buy any time of year, is torró. The traditional nougat bar is made using honey and almonds, but it also comes in different flavors in both hard and soft nougat varieties. Head to one of the multiple locations of Vicens spread throughout the city and you might be able to score a free sample.
For a filling hot dish, look for a traditional Catalan restaurant serving escudella. This is a soup with a light broth and large pasta shells stuffed with meat. Or, try the bechamel-covered canelones, another stuffed pasta dish that is typically made on December 26, using the leftover meat from the Christmas meal the day before.
Christmas festivities include markets and fairs
If you’re looking for European Christmas markets in Barcelona, you can find them at the Fira de Nadal in front of La Sagrada Família in L’Eixample and in Barri Gòtic with Fira de Santa Llucia, which has been an annual tradition in front of the Catedral de Barcelona since 1786. The majority of stalls sell traditional Christmas decorations and religious figurines, but there are usually some interesting finds in the mix where you can pick up ceramics or jewelry from local artisans.
After you’ve perused the stalls, make your way to Port Vell for the Fira de Nadal, which is set up every year on the waterfront. With food vendors from local businesses, an ice skating rink, carousel, and a Ferris Wheel, and a few artisan stalls as well, there is plenty to entertain visitors of all ages. Or, you can head to Montjuïc for even more fun at the Christmas Fair in Poble Espanyol, an open-air museum that brings together historic architectural styles from all over Spain in a functioning complex complete with bars and restaurants. In December, the “Spanish Village” gets into the spirit of the season with the Christmas Fair, a ticketed event with concerts and entertainment, such as circus performances and magic shows. The picturesque village is absolutely magical dressed up in colorful lights and there are different themed areas to explore. Learn about the hidden histories of beloved holiday traditions in “Tradicionarius” or visit Santa and the Three Wise Men in “Wishland.”
The festive season runs into the New Year
You might think New Year’s — ushered in with a glass of cava and 12 grapes at midnight — marks the end of Barcelona’s holiday season, but the party isn’t over until Three Kings Day on January 6. However, the celebration starts the night before with the Three Kings Parade. Starting at the port on January 5, the three kings disembark following their long travels and are welcomed by the mayor of Barcelona before setting off on a tour of the city. Families line the streets to watch the colorful floats pass by and to catch some of the sweets being thrown out to the crowds.
On the morning of Three Kings Day, you won’t be able to help but notice long lines outside of Barcelona’s local bakeries. They are waiting to pick up the Tortell de Reis, or King’s Cake, which is the tradition of the day. Similar to a brioche with a marzipan filling, each cake is also baked with a small toy and bean hidden inside. Whoever finds the toy is proclaimed king for the day and gets to wear the paper crown and whoever gets the bean has to pay for next year’s cake!
