“Pack your bags, we’re moving to Utrecht,” I told nearly everyone after returning from the city. Nobody’s going anywhere, unfortunately, but Utrecht has a way of embedding itself in your mind. It’s not just about how tidy and clean everything looks, though that certainly makes me want to book a one-way ticket. It’s the way the city operates on its own terms. Leafy streets lined with independent businesses and canal-side wharfs cleverly reimagined as outdoor terraces, as well as the sense of pride here, the quiet confidence in its history and its easy-going identity. It could also be the fact that this city is just a 25-minute train ride from Amsterdam, making it feel connected while still refreshingly different from its bigger, bolder neighbor.
If you’re visiting Utrecht on a day trip from Amsterdam, here’s how to experience it in just 24 hours.
How to get to Utrecht from the airport
Utrecht is located smack bang in the center of the Netherlands and is home to the country’s largest train station, Utrecht Centraal, so it’s well connected. Direct trains from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport take around 30 minutes (€11 one way), while trains from Amsterdam Centraal take about 25 minutes (€9) and run every 15 minutes or so. If you’re train-hopping through the Netherlands, Utrecht is just over an hour from Den Haag (€15), 1hr 25mins from Rotterdam (€13), 1hr 15mins from Delft (€15) and an hour from Eindhoven (€17).
Where should I stay?
Bunk is a capsule-room hostel with facilities that wouldn’t look out of place in a boutique hotel. It’s located in a former church near Utrecht Centraal, and a one-person pod costs about €42 midweek. A cozier option is the four-star City Center Lodge where rooms range from about €168 per night for two people.
Morning
9am: Start your day at Jacques by the Oudegracht (Old Canal) for a creamy flat white (or iced matcha) and salted dark chocolate cookie. Take them to the bench outside overlooking the Domotoren bell tower, the city’s towering landmark. Mornings are unhurried here; shops don’t open until 11am, so this is your moment to watch the city wake up. Or, maybe you could kickstart the day by climbing the 465 steps of the Domotoren (€13.50 for a guided tour) to get unbeatable views of the city.
10am: Join a walking tour of the Old Town. Tours are typically 90 minutes and begin in the serene, cloistered courtyard of St Martin’s Cathedral, once the largest church in the Netherlands, before moving along the canals to get the history of the city that used to be (for a brief time) the capital of the Netherlands. Unlike Amsterdam’s more tourist-trodden paths, Utrecht’s canal quays are walkable along the lower level and peaceful. You’ll come across former cellars in grand homes, now repurposed into quirky cafes, bars, start-ups and even guesthouses. Down by the water, below street level, there’s a calm you don’t often find in bigger cities, with groups of students chatting over coffee and locals reading books by the water.
Afternoon
Midday: For lunch, try Moksi, a family-run Surinamese bakery serving curries with rice or roti, or stuffed into broodjes (bread rolls). It’s small with just four tables, so if the lunchtime rush squeezes you out, aim for Gys for organic plant-based dishes or Anne&Max for breakfast and brunch classics.
1pm: Utrecht is the birthplace of Miffy (or Nijntje as she’s known in Dutch), the beloved bunny character created by Dick Bruna. If you’re traveling with kids, you should definitely visit the Miffy Museum in the city center – a playful, interactive space designed for children, though adults will appreciate the insight into the local illustrator’s legacy. For a broader cultural experience, try the Centraal Museum across the street. Its collection spans from contemporary Dutch art and architecture to fashion designs by Viktor & Rolf and medieval artifacts.
Or, if you like moseying around homes, head 20 minutes out of the city (on the no. 8 tram) to UNESCO-listed Rietveld-Schröderhuis. Designed by Gerrit Rietveld and owner Truus Schröder in 1924, it’s one of the only built examples of the radical ideas (for the time) of the De Stijl architecture movement. It looks worlds apart from the somber redbrick buildings surrounding it with its saturated primary colors, open-plan layout, dissolved boundaries and adaptable rooms. Even though it’s 100 years old, it still appears and feels incredibly forward-thinking. It’s a cool and fun way to spend the afternoon, just be sure to book a ticket well in advance.
4pm: Utrecht takes pride in its local businesses, and you’ll see reminders of this commitment throughout the city, with signs encouraging you to “buy local, shop local.” If you’re anything like me (a spendthrift), you won’t need to be told twice. Among the best places to shop are the concept store Daen’s, the minimalist fashion boutique Zolomanola and Franky Brown Vintage. Drogisterij Woortman, the oldest pharmacy in Utrecht, is worth a visit too. Inside you’ll find everything from tea to perfume, hand-carved combs and their homemade balms and botanical-based essential oils.
Evening
6pm: People in Utrecht love their bars and bistros with outdoor seating so they can sit and people-watch over a beer. There are so many places to do this, like Orloff aan de kade, Cafe Elize and the Rum Club on the canal, but one of my favorites is the outdoor terrace at the Springhaver Theater, an art deco-style two-screen cinema and cafe with tables that spill out on to the sidewalk under a canopy of hanging lights and bright green awnings. All ages seem to gather here, so it’s a good spot to chill with a drink.
7pm: For dinner, try Madeleine, a French-style bistro and wine bar where the owners’ raison d’être is to use well-sourced products from across Europe and turn them into indulgent dishes like duck with fig and padrón peppers, slow-cooked beef cheeks and Basque black pudding. Or Don Konousuke for traditional Japanese cuisine alongside an excellent selection of sakes and whiskies. You’ll likely need to book ahead for both.
Other spots to have on your list, that you don’t need a reservation for, are De Zwarte Vosch, a lively canal house on the Oudergach where they serve Spanish pintxos like grilled octopus and jamon croquettes. Easy-going and budget-friendly Anan for fresh Vietnamese street food with big, punchy flavors. If you’d prefer a quieter, more intimate evening, Saar has natural wines with seasonal dishes (including a cheese plate that I’d definitely go back for), perfect for winding down.
9pm: If you’ve made it this far without requiring a snooze, dance the rest of the night away at Stathe, a live music venue and bar with seemingly something different on every night of the week. ACU is another good bet, a counterculture and inclusive venue with weekly games nights and a decent selection of drinks and snacks. For a more relaxed way to round off your day, sink into one of the deep couches at down-to-earth Cafe DeRat. Or forget drinks, forget dancing, and finish up at Roberto Gelato for the best pistachio gelato in town.
This article was first published Oct 15, 2024 and updated Oct 16, 2024.
