In Western Washington, fall comes hard and fast and seemingly overnight. As a born-and-raised Washingtonian, I know all too well how the first cool day sparks the desire for crisp late-morning hikes, quaint seaside towns and, if you’re like me, the need to experience the Twilight movies for yourself. Trust me, a trip west to the Olympic Peninsula can easily achieve your fall dreams.
When people think of “Washington”, many are thinking of the Olympic Peninsula: rugged beaches, forests so lush and green, and towering mountains surrounding you. If you want to feel the full Pacific Northwest experience, head here.
When to arrive: September through late October is ideal for fall foliage and weather. But you can go any time of the year; just be prepared for colder temperatures and rain. Locals don’t shy away from soggy adventures – neither should you! Do be aware that in winter it can be very snowy at higher elevations, and certain sites like Hurricane Ridge will be challenging to visit.
How to get from the airport: Fly into SeaTac airport and pick up a rental car before driving to the Peninsula.
Getting around: Cars are necessary in Washington, and outside of Seattle, it is hard to get anywhere without them. Expect few rideshare options like Lyft and Uber outside of major cities.
Where to stay: This begs the question: how hardcore PNW you are trying to be? If camping is what you are after, the Olympic National Park is jam-packed with camping opportunities. Hoh River campsite is a personal favorite. If you prefer a romantic boutique hotel, instead try the Palace Hotel in Port Townsend and Misty Valley Inn in Forks.
What to pack: The weather can be very unpredictable during fall, so pack layers and rain gear. Boots are a must. Umbrellas in the PNW are a no-no as rain tends to be more of a light mist. When it does rain hard, it’s generally accompanied by strong winds, which makes an umbrella useless. A waterproof jacket with a hood is the way to go.
Friday
Morning: Welcome to the stunning Pacific Northwest. Today, we are diving in head first. Whether you fly into Seattle or are driving, make sure to start early. Our first stop is Forks, Washington. Not only will you have the chance to indulge in a little Twilight, but it’s also the perfect place to get a true feel for the region. Forks is famous for being the rainiest town in the contiguous United States.
Begin your day by heading into town to grab a quick coffee and pastry from A Shot in the Dark. If you prefer a sit-down meal, The In Place is a solid option for traditional diner food. It is important to note that the Olympic Peninsula is known for its nature, not its food, so cooking is always a good alternative.
How to spend the day: After breakfast, head over to view the Forever Twilight in Forks Collection. This local museum features original outfits and paraphernalia from the Twilight movies, and – a bonus – it’s free!
After browsing the museum, you can stop at the Forks Visitor Center to see Bella Swan’s iconic truck. If Twilight isn’t for you, opt for the Forks Timber Museum. Once the logging capital of the world, the museum delves into the history of the logging industry in Forks (entry is $5).
After some history, hit the beach. Whether you love the vampire franchise or not, La Push First Beach is the perfect spot to enjoy a crisp afternoon and the Pacific Ocean. First Beach is accessible by car and is a popular surfing spot. It’s located on the Quileute Nation, so please be respectful of their land and community. Read up on the history of the Quileute people before you visit.
If you want to get a hike in, opt for Second Beach or Third Beach instead. Second Beach features a 2-mile trek through the forest, while Third Beach is slightly shorter at 1.3 miles. Each beach has stunning views and rock formations that are completely worth the extra effort. Note that to enter La Push First Beach, you need to purchase a National Park pass. You do not need a pass for Second or Third Beach.
If you have time, you can take an hour-long drive to Cape Flattery, which is the farthest Northwest point in the United States.
Dinner: Depending on where you stay, grab dinner at your hotel or enjoy burgers and shakes from Sully’s Drive-in in Forks. Stay at the cozy bed and breakfast, Misty Valley Inn or in the oceanfront cabins on First Beach at Quileute Oceanside Resort. You can also choose to camp along the La Push beaches or at Hoh Rainforest to cut out driving time tomorrow.
Tip: Purchasing a National Park Pass which lasts seven days ($30) will give you access to La Push, Hoh Rainforest and more.
Saturday
Morning: Today, we start bright and early to venture into Olympic National Park. During autumn, the busy season will slow down as the rain starts to fall more regularly, but hitting the trails early is still the best way to avoid crowds.
From Forks, head one hour to Hoh Rainforest. You can grab breakfast at The Hard Rain Cafe along your way. Make sure to explore the Hall of Mosses during your time in the rainforest. Due to the region’s heavy rainfall, moss knows no bounds and has taken over the area in a truly captivating way. The trail is an easy 0.8-mile loop and an unmissable stop.
How to spend the day: Next, get back on the road and head for the Salt Creek recreation area. The two-hour drive is as beautiful as the destination. At Salt Creek, enjoy a laid-back afternoon, taking in the sea breeze. A number of hikes line the shoreline, plus at low tide, it makes for a great spot to explore the tide pools and spot various sea critters.
Afterward, head into Port Angeles for lunch. If you want to continue on the Twilight theme, try Bella Italia, which fans will remember from Edward and Bella’s first date. You can even sample the mushroom ravioli that Bella enjoyed. Alternatively, try Grayson’s for mouth-watering chicken sandwiches and the best breakfast burrito around.
After lunch, wrap up the day of nature with a visit to Hurricane Ridge. The drive to the top is fantastic, with views of Port Angeles, the Strait of Juan De Fuca and the Olympic Mountains. If you want to stretch your legs, the Hurricane Hill hike is only a 3.2-mile round trip and provides similar panoramic views.
Dinner: This will depend heavily on where you are hoping to stay. If you are pitching a tent – roast weenies over a fire. If you are in Port Angeles, try Thai food from Jasmine Bistro. Lodging in Port Angeles is limited, with Redlion Hotel being the main option. For a higher-end experience outside of town, try Lake Crescent Lodge, which offers a tranquil respite. Or, if you want to embrace the outdoors, Crescent Beach and Salt Creek both feature fantastic campsites.
Sunday
Morning: For a slower morning, head over to Chestnut Cottage for a sit-down breakfast in Port Angeles or stop by Oak Table in Sequim, a local favorite. Continue east to Port Townsend for the final day of your Olympic Penisula adventure. This small seaside town is famous for its Victorian architecture and eclectic art scene. If you didn’t grab breakfast in Port Angeles, stop by Pane d’Amore Artisan Bakery for fresh baked goods and a coffee before exploring downtown.
How to spend the day: Stop by the Port Townsend Antique Mall to trinket hunt before a visit to Imprint Bookstore. This locally owned shop not only stocks the best sellers but also works by local writers. For lunch, grab a slice or two of pizza from long-time staple, Waterfront Pizza, before heading down to the water for a relaxing lunch with a view. Catch views of the various Puget Sound Islands and watch ships come in and out of port.
In the afternoon, venture out to Fort Worden (note: you will need to purchase a one-day State Park Discover Pass for $10). This expansive historic state park is chock-full of stunning views of the Puget Sound and miles of hiking routes. Tour the Commanding Officers Quarters Museum to take in some history before exploring the beach or hitting the trails. You can also visit the Point Wilson Lighthouse.
If you are feeling sore, have met your limit of outdoor activities, or the rain won’t let up, stop by Soak and Sauna for a chance to relax and unwind after your adventure.
Dinner: End your day with a decadent meal at Finistere, Port Townsend’s go-to place for stellar French-inspired cuisine. Continue your journey east back to Seattle or stay overnight at the Palace Hotel for Victorian architecture. There is also ample camping opportunity at Fort Worden park.
