It’s impossible to talk about Bologna without food dominating the conversation – the city (and region of Emilia-Romagna) arguably sits at the top of a long list of culinary nirvanas throughout Italy. Emilian specialties dominate gastronomic landscapes the world over (ragù, tortellini, lasagna, balsamic vinegar, parmigiano reggiano, mortadella – it’s endless, really). As a native Atlantan that has lived in California, New York, Brazil and Portugal, among others, I can confidently say that nothing in those cities has carried the cultural weight that food does in Bologna. Eating here is divine and I have ferociously done so since 2019.
But a word of warning: Do not show up here looking for spaghetti and meatballs (no such thing) or spaghetti Bolognese (it doesn’t exist) or spaghetti at all (it’s from the south). In Bologna, it’s all about fresh, egg-based pastas (tagliatelle, tortelloni and so on) and, more often than not, pork-based sauces and stuffings. Buon appetito!
Cornetto with pistachio cream at Gamberini
Being a savory sort of breakfast guy myself (and American, so give me a breakfast burrito, bagel sandwich or crab cake eggs Benedict any day), breakfast is my least favorite meal in Italy. Truth be told, it’s the one meal in which the country isn’t outrageously perfect (I mean, they can’t win every culinary battle). Italian breakfast is designed to be quick and snappy. That’s not to say what they do isn’t wonderful, though. In the city center, the pastry case at Gamberini makes for painstaking decisions. Grab a cornetto (Italian croissant) oozing with pistachio cream (or anything with pistachio cream, really, it’s my kryptonite).
How to get it: Walk in, anytime. Gamberini is open from 7am until 9pm every day (except Fridays).
Raspberry brioches at Gino Fabbri Pasticcere
Another favorite pasticceria requires your own wheels, but Gino Fabbri Pasticcere, 6km northeast of the city center, is a detour-worthy, internationally-awarded bakery. You can’t go wrong with anything here, but the rosy-striped lampone (raspberry) and zucchero (sugar-iced) brioches are worth traveling for. If I am in dire need of savory, which is definitely cause for a treasure hunt here, options on toast at Papparè in the city center (bacon, avocado, feta etc) help tide me over until I can get stateside.
How to get it: You’ll need your own car for this one. It’s open six days a week (closed Sunday) on the outskirts of the city and requires a 20-minute drive. Alternatively, you can take the 88 bus from Stazione Centrale.
The perfect espresso at Aroma
One of Italy’s greatest attributes is that – with very few exceptions – a fantastic espresso or cappuccino is available anywhere and everywhere, including normal caffeine dead zones such as petrol stations and cheap hotels. Third wave coffeehouses exist in Italy, but they remain rare, as the demand for them isn’t as strong as other parts of the world. Still, there are specialty cafes whose emphasis on knowledge, roasting, barista training and execution outweigh the average. If I’m looking for a perfect espresso, I head to Aroma – you’ll pay more here (€1.50-€4) but it’s worth it. It’s one of the few places featuring specialty roasts from international coffee hotbeds (Ethiopia, El Salvador, Uganda) and alternative methods like V-60 etc. Another is Caffè TerzI, which has a more bygone vibe and excellent pastries to go with their lengthy menu of single-origin 100% Arabica roasts from around the world. But don’t fret if those seem out of the way, there’s a good coffee near you – trust me.
How to get it: It’s open seven days a week from 8am (9:30am on weekends) until 6pm.
Fresh pasta at Sfoglia Rina
If you have never been to Bologna before, head straight to Sfoglia Rina and get in line (arrive early – there’s no reservations). The fresh pasta at this suburban transplant (it began in 1963 in nearby Casalecchio di Reno) is sublime. It’s a wonderful spot to wrap your head around all that Bologna is famed for (tagliatelle, tortellini, tortelloni) along with weekly-changing creative takes. The tagliatelle al ragù (pasta with a meat and tomato sauce) and gramigna alla salsiccia (pasta with sausage meat) are favorites.
How to get it: Sfoglia Rina is open seven days a week from 9am to 9pm. They don’t take reservations and there’s always a queue.
Veal cutlets at All’Osteria Bottega
Another top lunch choice – if you can get a reservation – is All’Osteria Bottega, which is wonderfully located under the UNESCO World Heritage listed Santa Catarina portico. Their Petroniana-style veal cutlet (another Bologna specialty known as cotaletta, topped here with prosciutto di Parma and parmigiano Reggiano) was my original introduction to the dish and has never been outdone. It’s a quintessential Bolognese experience – the food is so good, there’s no need for niceties or pleasantries. You are lucky to have gotten a table, full stop!
How to get it: It’s closed Sunday and Monday but open every other day from 12:30pm until 10:30pm. You’ll have to call them to book a table as they don’t offer online reservations.
Ruote alla vodka at Casa Merlò
My favorite non-traditional lunch dish in town? The ruote alla vodka at Casa Merlò/Locanda Casa Merlò, a recipe from chef Dario Picchiotti featuring Benedetto Cavalieri pasta wheels dunked in a throwback vodka sauce with smoked Tuscan rigatino (pancetta). The new locanda (rural inn), located outside town in Calderara di Reno, serves up countryside lunch perfection.
How to get it: Casa Merlò is located in the city center and open seven days a week from 12:30 to 3pm for lunch and then again from 7:30pm until 12:30am for dinner. It accepts online reservations. To get to the locando, you need to drive or take the 576 bus from Bologna Central Bus Station.
Sangiovese-braised beef at Trattoria Bertozzi
The hardest thing about living in Bologna is choosing where to eat dinner. Spur-of-the-moment decisions are out – all great places require reservations, at least a few days in advance (more for some) – and there’s simply too much sensational from which to choose. Trattoria Bertozzi is one of my top three restaurants. It does it all: exceptionally executed tradition. Their signature gramigna, with guanciale, zucchini, saffron and parmigiano Reggiano, and Sangiovese-braised beef, are my staples.
How to get it: It’s open six days a week (closed on Sundays) from 7:30pm until 10pm. For lunch, it opens earlier on Fridays and Saturdays from 12:30pm to 2:30pm. You can email or call ahead to reserve a table.
Lasagne at Al Cambio
The lasagne at Al Cambio – no hyperbole here – is one of the greatest things you will ever put in your mouth. That’s all I have to say.
How to get it: You can email or call ahead to secure a spot. It’s open six days a week (closed Sundays) from 12 to 2:30pm for lunch and from 7:30pm to 10:30pm for dinner.
Tortellini at Oltre
And for something more romantic and a tad trendy, Oltre chef Daniele Bendanti isn’t afraid to tweak tradition. The only tortellini in parmigiano Reggiano cream I’ve had better than his was cooked by world-famous, three-star Michelin chef Massimo Bottura!
How to get it: It’s open from Thursday to Monday (closed Tuesday and Wednesday) from 7:30pm until 11pm and from 12:30pm to 2:30pm for lunch from Saturday to Monday. You’ll need to book ahead.
Negronis at Agricola e Vitale
Bolognese cuisine is quite heavy, so if I’m out and about around aperitivo time, I’m usually just looking for a cocktail rather than free food with a drink (now in Milan the story would be different). It’s touristy and pricy, but I’m always down for a negroni at Agricola e Vitale, not because it’s superior to other versions around town (Italians don’t screw up negronis!) but rather the location: Its outdoor tables occupy my favorite square in the city, Piazza Santo Stefano, and the view (and people-watching) are fantastic.
How to get it: Open daily from 11am to 1am, except for Friday and Saturday when it stays open until 2am.
Wine, snacks and vibes at Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita
Less touristy but equally compelling is Le Serre dei Giardini Margherita, where the city’s old greenhouses have been turned into a wonderfully atmospheric bar/restaurant/co-working hang space for students, artists, creatives and intellectuals. It’s a great spot for a drawn-out bottle of wine and small plates like breaded meatballs and focaccia filled with in-season vegetables.
How to get it: It’s a 20-minute walk from the city center of Bologna (or hop on the 16 bus) and open weekdays from 8am to 8pm and on weekends from 9am to 9.30pm.
Craft beer at Il Punto
I’m a craft beer guy and Italy (Bologna in particular) has one of the best scenes among traditional European wine countries. My go-to is Il Punto, whose location on the periphery of the city center acts as a filter that only locals or beer nerds (“nerds della birra” as the Italians say) who do their research slip through. Expect eight taps of local craft.
How to get it: Walk in, seven days a week until late.
Late-night cocktails at Ruggine
For late-night cocktails, I head for Ruggine near the Quadrilatero. Creative mixology and a lively/social crowd (normally uncommon at most Italian bars) make it a place to settle in for an extended evening of cocktail “research.”
How to get it: Ruggine is open from 12pm to 1am every day (except Monday when it opens at 6pm). It serves food every day, including Sunday brunch. No need to reserve a spot, walk-ins are accepted.
